1957 F100 build

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1957 F100 build

Post  JTCope on January 12th 2011, 3:48 pm

Picked up the truck in mid November. Truck has been sitting in garage since the 80's. One family owned the truck since new. It's a shortbox custom cab small window. originally a 6 cylinder, but was later swapped with a 289. a 460 D0VE engine is being rebuilt for the truck. The fenders and grille were removed to show how solid the truck was. there are some small spots on the cab corners, but new corners were included with the truck.

tear down has started. Hopefully painted and ready to go by summer.



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Re: 1957 F100 build

Post  Am-iron on January 12th 2011, 4:07 pm

Very Nice! A few suggestions if you don't mind. With the torque that engine will put out boxing the frame might be necessary. You might also want to widen the rear wheel wells a bit. I had pretty decent rubber in the back of mine and that 312 would burn rubber all the way down the block no problem. You are talking almost triple that power with your big block. You will hardly be able to touch the gas without the rear letting loose. You probably want the fuel tank back there, and a posi traction at the least. That would be after the wider wheels and tires. That truck will win many burn out contests! You might be aware of all this already I just want to warn you these trucks are lighter than you might think.
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Re: 1957 F100 build

Post  JTCope on January 12th 2011, 4:20 pm

I never mind suggestions or help! yep, boxing the frame is in the plan. I'm not a welder, so I'm gonna have to have someone do that for me. Wanted to keep the wheel wells stock for now, but may be something I have to go back and do. it will have traction-lok. gonna leave the tank in the cab for now, but already been exploring methods of moving it to the back.
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Re: 1957 F100 build

Post  Am-iron on January 12th 2011, 4:38 pm

JTCope wrote:I never mind suggestions or help! yep, boxing the frame is in the plan. I'm not a welder, so I'm gonna have to have someone do that for me. Wanted to keep the wheel wells stock for now, but may be something I have to go back and do. it will have traction-lok. gonna leave the tank in the cab for now, but already been exploring methods of moving it to the back.

You will need to fill the hole in for the gas cap before paint. I sent you a contact for a great welder at really good prices in your intro I think. I could help you do the fenders after paint but you will need to use bedliner to hide the work. I am sure others have moved their tanks maybe someone will chime in with suggestions. Hidden latches and all that will need to be done before paint. You can see on my truck where It was painted before them so the square holes are still there. I also had to re-paint the tail gate. It would have been better and cheaper to just take care of it all before paint. If you are going to lower it you need to do that as well before paint. All that heavy work is much harder with fresh nice paint to work around. It is nearly impossible not to create touch ups. Also with a big engine like that power steering is highly recommended.
My truck was not lowered much so no major mods were needed. If you go around 4" or more you might need to notch the frame and change the steering.
My welder is portable so if you can do work at your place. I can bring it up there. I can use 110 or 220 for power. I charge $50 per hour for portable welding and $40 here, That is a special price for forum members! Materials are extra.


Last edited by Am-iron on January 12th 2011, 5:09 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : add information)
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Re: 1957 F100 build

Post  Am-iron on January 13th 2011, 10:38 am

JTCope wrote:Thanks Allen-
truck is being stripped and ready for paint now. engine is being rebuilt. My big concern is fitting the 460 into the truck. I've never had to install an engine without pre-placed motor and tranny mounts. That will be my first big challenge.


I have a friend Shane at H Fabrication 303-868-7499 He can set it all up for you and very reasonable. He is fast and I think less than $50 an hour. If you need any fabrication of heavy gauge stuff, (frame boxing or mods, etc.) he is your man. He might charge you if he has to go pick it up but it will be cheaper than a tow for sure. I highly recommend his work and service. He says he hates Fords.....I think it's just a show! He mounted the 429 and trans in my 54 F100. He can also make custom headers and exhaust, he has a mandrel bender. Shane also does heavy mechanics like differentials etc. I know a real good painter too but that might cost a little bit, you will not find better though. It sounds like you have that lined up.
Allen
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Re: 1957 F100 build

Post  JTCope on January 13th 2011, 11:41 am

Am-iron wrote:
JTCope wrote:I never mind suggestions or help! yep, boxing the frame is in the plan. I'm not a welder, so I'm gonna have to have someone do that for me. Wanted to keep the wheel wells stock for now, but may be something I have to go back and do. it will have traction-lok. gonna leave the tank in the cab for now, but already been exploring methods of moving it to the back.

You will need to fill the hole in for the gas cap before paint. I sent you a contact for a great welder at really good prices in your intro I think. I could help you do the fenders after paint but you will need to use bedliner to hide the work. I am sure others have moved their tanks maybe someone will chime in with suggestions. Hidden latches and all that will need to be done before paint. You can see on my truck where It was painted before them so the square holes are still there. I also had to re-paint the tail gate. It would have been better and cheaper to just take care of it all before paint. If you are going to lower it you need to do that as well before paint. All that heavy work is much harder with fresh nice paint to work around. It is nearly impossible not to create touch ups. Also with a big engine like that power steering is highly recommended.
My truck was not lowered much so no major mods were needed. If you go around 4" or more you might need to notch the frame and change the steering.
My welder is portable so if you can do work at your place. I can bring it up there. I can use 110 or 220 for power. I charge $50 per hour for portable welding and $40 here, That is a special price for forum members! Materials are extra.

Thanks Allen, My plan is to leave it stock at first. I think if I move the tank to under the bed, I'll leave the filler hole behind the door. I like that look for some reason. Hidden latches on the tailgate are already there. I'm sure my plans will change 100 times between now and the time I'm ready for paint, but dreaming is the fun part.
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Re: 1957 F100 build

Post  Shop Truck on January 18th 2011, 3:24 am

Looking great!
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