lead solder tips

I wanna do some lead work on my 60 stepside and i need to know besides the tinning butter, lead solder, paddles, and wax, if there was anything else i will need. This will be the first time i work with lead solder so it will be experimental. I'm gonna seal the holes for the custon cab badge and the side hood emblems. Also if anybody has done it before that could give me tips, please let me know.
Thanks

Do not use it! I know people talk about the benefits, but that was the past. It causes cracking of the new paints. I just finished my truck about a year ago and everywhere there was lead had to be stripped out, re done with all metal and then the paint touched up. I would either weld them or fill with all metal. I don't know if lacquer reacts differently to the lead but the paint I used did not like it! It is also a lot more work than just doing a few spot welds. If you want I nice metal finish after welding grind it most of the way then use a fine file to get the rest and finish it with the same sand as the rest of the body. That is just my opinion. Someone else may know some tricks to help????? Allen

thanks, Yean the paint is just gonna be rattle can but my first option was to weld them but i always wanted to learn how to do it so thats why i wanted to use lead instead of welding.

I will ask around. I only speak from recent experience. My painter knew there was lead under there without even seeing it while I did the body work. I know that learning new stuff is good too.

i still ight go with my original idea about welding it.

I'm with Am-iron on this....
Honestly, the impression that using filler is "bad" bodywork isn't true anymore.

Your best bet is to grind/sandblast everything 100% clean, make your welds, grind/dress the welds, apply an epoxy primer, use duraglas to level the area- and then finish up with plastic filler/primer surfacer..

Leadwork done properly is very stable- but it has it's own set of problems.....mostly that it does not fuse with the metal like a weld does. It sits on top of the metal like other fillers. It's inherent problem is that the application has to be performed on top of bare metal with heat. In a humid environment, the torch heat causes condensation between the lead and the sheetmetal. Which makes, guess what? Rust.
And yes- it's technically "metal"- but it is still a dissimilar material.

The polyester and epoxy resins sold for bodywork these days are downright amazing. Most sheetmetal quarter panels on newer cars are attached with a polymer adhesive. Applied correctly, "Bondo", fiberglass resin, duraglass and are so stable you can't knock them out with a hammer without destroying the surrounding sheetmetal. Commonly sold two part epoxy's have enough tensile strength to tear 20 gauge sheetmetal. On and on...

I understand the desire to make something truely vintage....but as far as i know nobody uses a torch anymore- unless they are working on a concours ferrari restoration or something..sometimes newer is better.
Sorry for the book and good luck

Dan